Applique and patchwork represent distinct sewing techniques employed in assembling pieces of fabric, a tradition embraced by women globally. Some artisans showcase their unique skills by combining both applique and patchwork, resulting in a final product known as applique patchwork. The captivating visual appeal of this composition arises from vibrant, multicolored fabric pieces embellishing a geometrically shaped textile base. Notably, the bonded applique fabrics prevent sagging or wrinkling, originally emerging as a frugal approach to mending old garments.
Applique Work
Derived from the French and Latin verbs ‘appliquer’ and ‘applicare,’ meaning to put on or attach, applique involves affixing small, colorful designer fabric pieces onto a larger textile base. This intricate process includes outlining, precise motif cutting, and layering with another material. The raw edges are meticulously finished through stitching. The base’s contour, be it a circle, square, triangle, or oval, often remains white but can incorporate colors. Diverse patchwork motifs, varying in size, geometric shapes, figures, and colors, create enchanting patterns. These small fabric pieces can be attached by stitching or bonding with glue, allowing for artistic expression. Traditional motifs include elephants, parrots, peacocks, flowers, and more, with colors ranging from subtle to contrasting and bright. Applique work’s uniqueness lies in its potential for additional embellishments like glass pieces, metals, wood, or metal wires.
Patchwork
Patchwork, a needlework technique, involves stitching together small fabric pieces to form a larger piece, utilizing strips, squares, triangles, or other shapes. These patches are stitched by hand or machine into square blocks or units, often following a predetermined pattern drawn on paper. The shapes are initially folded around paper templates and joined together using whipstitches. The resulting blocks can be arranged in various settings, and the designs may feature repeating patterns, colors, and shapes. Patchwork’s versatility allows for the creation of pieces in any size, shape, or color. The origins of patchwork date back thousands of years, with evidence found in ancient Egyptian tombs and burial sites. This technique likely evolved as a means of reusing expensive textiles.
History of Applique Work and Patchwork
The earliest examples of applique date back to A.D. 300-1000, when Copts of Egypt stitched woven roundels, squares, stripes, and L-shaped corner pieces onto plain robes. Patchwork’s roots trace back even further, with examples found in ancient Egyptian tombs, such as the quilted funeral canopy in Queen Esi-mem-Kev’s tomb from 980 BC. This craft, initially inspired by funeral canopies, evolved into quilted bed covers made of patchwork, frequently noted in household inventories from the 11th to the 13th centuries. Patchwork, primarily associated with the domestic economy, served as a way to utilize fabric scraps and extend the lifespan of clothing, distinguishing it from the more professional practice of quilting.
Applique in India
In India, the traditional needlecraft known as appliqué work, sometimes referred to as “Kantha” embroidery, has a rich history dating back to the ancient Indus Valley Civilization. Although archaeological findings indicate the presence of textile work and designs from this period, it wasn’t until the medieval era that appliqué work gained recognition as an art form. Excavations at Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa revealed embroidery needles dating between 2300 and 1500 B.C., showcasing the early roots of this craft. Archaeological evidence also points to the existence of highly intricate Indian textiles, such as an image of a bearded man wearing a shawl with a trefoil motif found at Mohenjo-Daro, along with references to Indian cotton. In the 11th century, appliqué work became a prominent craft in Indian celebrations, with the Marwari communities in Rajasthan producing distinguished examples. The craftsmanship, believed to be influenced by the Egyptians, involved both genders, contributing to dense and intricate designs. The art of appliqué, cutwork, and obscure stitching migrated from Pakistan to India with refugees. Some sources suggest that appliqué work entered India in the 19th century through trade contacts with Europe or Arabia in the Middle East.
Key centers for appliqué work in India include Pipli in Orissa, Rampur in Uttar Pradesh, and Gujarat. These centers not only played a significant role on an economic level but also elevated appliqué to a level of finesse and excellence. Early traces of appliqué work in northern Gujarat can be found in the large canopies, ox cart tents, and hangings produced by folk women, identified by their distinct style of fabrication, composition, and patterns. The Kathis, Mahajans, and Nomad camel herders were notable producers of appliqué crafts in the region. Similar to patchwork, appliqué involves constructing or embroidering quilts, and this craft is utilized globally for designing banners, display items, and clothing. Gujarat artists exhibit a diverse color palette in their appliqué and patchwork, ranging from cool to warm colors and bright to neutral tones.
In Rajasthan, the art of appliqué is reminiscent of the Katab patchwork from Kathiawar, a peninsula near the Gulf of Kutch in Gujarat. Notably, Rajasthan boasts two prominent forms of appliqué work known as ‘Gota’ and ‘Kinari’. These involve the use of golden and silver-colored pieces and laces that are meticulously sewn onto fabric. The Gota work, distinguished by its embroidery on velvet cloth, imparts a unique appearance. Classical and folk designs feature prominently in Gota work, especially in women’s costumes, with Khandela in Shekhawati being a primary hub for their production. Geometrical models, often crafted from square-shaped colored textile pieces in earthy hues, are commonly used in Appliqué, particularly in quilts like the renowned ‘Rallis of Jaisalmer’.
The ‘Barmer Applique’ tradition involves the intricate sewing of motifs depicting natural scenes onto bedspreads with black and brown bases. Women from a number of villages in Rajasthan are traditionally responsible for crafting these appliqués, a process that takes about a month to complete for a single bedspread. Appliqué in Rajasthan extends beyond bedspreads and is applied to various items such as clothing, pillow covers, bed sheets, lampshades, and wall hangings. Everyday items like bags and tablemats also showcase the art. The versatile craft extends to garments like blouses, petticoats, and gowns. Rajasthani appliqué work predominantly features vibrant red, purple, yellow, black, green, and white fabrics. Contrasting-colored appliqué motifs take the form of animals, birds, flowers, leaves, celestial bodies, and geometric shapes. These motifs are skillfully stitched onto base fabrics, creating raised patterns through strategic folding. The artistry of appliqué lies in intricate stitches like bakhia, guntha, turpa, chikan, and other embroidery techniques. A recent trend in Rajasthan involves the use of small and bright mirror pieces. Family involvement is a key aspect of the appliqué-making process in Rajasthan, with experienced family members tackling intricate designs, while younger and less experienced members focus on the stitching of borders and creating the base fabrics.
Forms and Techniques
- Mirror Work: Mirror work, also known as “sheesha,” involves inserting small pieces of reflective glass or mirrors into the fabric alongside the appliqué pieces. This addition of mirrorwork imparts sparkle and enhances the overall aesthetics of the patchwork.
- Reverse Applique: In this technique, multiple layers of fabric are stacked together, and a design is marked on the top layer. Small sections of the top layer are then cut out to reveal the fabric layers beneath. The cut-out sections’ edges are folded back and stitched down, creating a neat and decorative border around the design.
- Inlaid Applique: In this method, specific shapes are set onto corresponding shapes on the ground fabric. The raw edges are sewn together and concealed by embroidery stitches or couched work, resulting in an attractive decorative edge for the appliquéd piece.
- Leather Applique: The Mochis of Kutch acquired this skill in the late 16th or early 17th century. Black, red, and green leather are embroidered with silver and gold chain stitches. Originally used to cover shields in Kutch and nearby Sind, these shields were tooled, painted, and armored with metal bosses.
- Crazy Patchwork: This technique involves sewing irregularly shaped and colored pieces of cloth together.
- Pieced Patchwork: Geometric shapes are cut out on stiff card or paper, covered in cloth, and then sewn together in a pre-defined pattern. This creates blocks that are further sewn together to form larger areas of patchwork. The stiffened shapes are often removed and reused elsewhere in the design, allowing for a wide range of geometric designs by altering colors, patterns, and shapes.
- Shadow Work: This style of appliqué involves cutting shapes from fabric and stitching them behind transparent fabrics such as fine silk, cotton, or muslin. This creates a shadow effect through the materials.
- Embroidery: Intricate hand embroidery stitches like chain stitch, running stitch, or satin stitch are used to outline or fill in the appliqué shapes. Contrasting or complementary embroidery threads add depth and intricacy to the patchwork designs.
- Bordering and Piping: Borders and piping, made from colorful fabric strips or bias tapes, are stitched around the edges of the patchwork to achieve a neat and finished appearance. These borders can be plain, appliquéd, embroidered, or adorned with additional embellishments such as sequins or beads.
- Quilting: Patchwork is a fundamental construction technique in quilting, often combined with appliqué. Once padded, the patchwork becomes a quilt. After completing the appliqué and embroidery, a layer of batting is added between the patchwork and the backing fabric. The layers are then stitched together using running stitches or other decorative quilting stitches, creating a quilted effect that provides structure and texture.
Making Process
The applique patchwork process typically involves the use of cotton fabrics. The base textile is intentionally kept thin compared to the fabric bits employed for the applique work. The length of the applique patchwork can range from a minimum of 3 meters to the specific length requested by the customer. To initiate the fabrication of an applique patchwork, the groundwork for the product’s base must be laid. This base can be either a plain textile or a foundation created through patchwork. In the Kutch region, artisans prepare the base through patchwork, beginning by determining its design. The colored fabrics are then cut into shapes required for the pattern, and these cut pieces are arranged on a flat surface to ensure the pattern is correct. Once the pattern is established, the fabric pieces are sewn together with the facing inward to create the desired form. This process results in the creation of the base for the applique patchwork, which is then meticulously ironed.
Moving on to the next stage, the applique work is executed on the base textile, which has been prepared using patches of fabric. The motifs chosen for the applique include trees, houses, and seasonal drawings representing various weather conditions and environments during summer, winter, rainy, spring, and autumn. Additionally, scenes from mythological stories, such as Lord Krishna accompanied by dancers, and narrative scenarios depicting festivals, farming, and seasonal celebrations like Raksha Bandhan and Navarathri, are incorporated. Depending on the chosen motif, patterned colored fabrics are cut, and the edges of these fabric pieces are turned inwards. The motifs are then meticulously hand-stitched, with attention to fine details such as the features of people and ornamentation. In the final steps, the artwork is neatly framed with a border and made available for sale.
The product’s pricing is contingent upon factors such as the fabric material, the intricacy of the designs, the labor involved in fabrication, and the artisan’s level of effort. Pieces that depict the entire narrative of a specific festival or occasion tend to have a higher cost.
- Materials: base fabric (such as cotton or silk), fabric pieces for appliqué, scissors, thread, and needles.
- Design: floral motifs, animals, or geometric patterns.
- Cutting: Cutting out the desired shapes from the fabric for appliqué. These shapes can be petals, leaves, or any other elements that make up your design.
- Placement: Arrange the fabric pieces on the base fabric to ensure a visually appealing composition.
- Sewing: sewing the fabric pieces using a needle and thread onto the base fabric
- Embellishments: adding additional embroidery, beadwork, or sequins to the fabric pieces or around the appliqué to enhance the design
- Finishing: trimming any excess threads after final sewing of all the fabric pieces and embellishments
- Tools: scissors, thread and needle.
Originating from the Barmer region in Rajasthan, India, Barmer patchwork and the distinctive textile heritage of Sindh, though rooted in their respective localities, have historically influenced each other due to geographical proximity and cultural interactions. This interplay is reflected in shared techniques and design elements such as appliqué, mirror work, embroidery, patchwork quilts, and the utilization of traditional motifs and colors. Appliqué Barmer, requiring a high degree of skill, creativity, precision, and patience, results in the creation of striking textile pieces like wall hangings, bedspreads, cushions, valances, bags, and various clothing items. The visually stunning allure of these creations is achieved through a harmonious blend of vibrant colors, intricate designs, and embellishments.
